I’ve been an avid reader about the siege of the Alamo since I was a kid, starting with Walter Lord’s, A Time to Stand. One of my favorite was Three Roads to the Alamo, by William Davis. I started to correspond with Bill about his research and he even granted me the honor of writing an intro to my book on Count Felix von Luckner, The Cruise of the Sea Eagle.
Every year, my wife and I talked about going, but this year, we did it. I have an idea for a novel set at the Alamo, and if you know me, I’m into the research.
It was an amazing visit.
We arrived during the fiesta of the Battle of Flowers – two days/nights of parades and parties. It was very entertaining. The people of San Antonio are very nice, they keep the city clean and safe. It was refreshing to hear the citizens of a community cheer when the police came by in the parade. On its own, San Antonio is a fantastic place to visit.
We did the guided tour of the Alamo, which I recommend. I think the biggest shock for me was how small the façade of the church was. In my mind, it was much larger.
The Alamo is not a “Texas thing,” as one person tried to tell me before our trip. For me, it was an American story as much as a Texan one. It is almost a religious experience to go there. It is a church that remains as symbol of freedom. Last stands are fascinating studies of humanity at its best. Despite the opportunity to leave, the Alamo defenders remained. You can argue about the historic credibility of Travis drawing a line in the sand, but when you are there, and you see the brass marker, you cannot help but step over the line yourself. There is a reverence when you step into the church. Hats come off, voices become whispers. The walls cast eerie shadows, still holding a few secrets.
Walking the long barracks, I tried to picture the hand-to-hand combat there – point blank death. Standing in the plaza, it is easy to imagine that the surrounding buildings are gone. When you walk up to the statue of Davy Crockett, it looms over you, much like the reputation of the man himself.
I’m a “special” kind of history junkie. I went to look for John McGregor’s name on the memorial. Having been a bagpipe player, I have read two accounts of McGregor (one of the four Scotsmen in siege) playing his bagpipes accompanied by Crockett playing his fiddle. Yes, I’m that level of a geek. Bagpipes at the Alamo! That’s a whole new level of stubborn!
Yes, my wife is extremely patient.
We met people that had been to the Alamo throughout their lives. People go back, not because there are new things to see, but because of the feeling you get when you are there. Patriotism, liberty, love of country…they are all intertwined in that place. It is a historian’s holy ground and a place where you can refresh your own sense of duty to both nation and freedom. You can do the entire tour in a few hours but the memories will stay with you for much longer.
We are engaged in an election year. We could all use a reboot of our patriotism and a true appreciation of what it means to be an American. The Alamo grants that.
I wrote about the Alamo in A Most Uncivil War. It was refreshing that I got it right based on the online photos and the help of the Alamo visitor center.
I came away with a much greater respect for the thirteen days of glory that took place there and the efforts to preserve such an important site. My only regret is that I cannot be a citizen of Virginia and Texas…because having been there, I really developed a stronger bond with the Lone Star state and its wonderful people.
Notes From The Bunker 